For FW23, UNDERCOVER References UNDERCOVER

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With its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Japanese brand UNDERCOVER is directly referencing… itself.

There’s a lot more going on in UNDERCOVER FW23, “kosmische,” than just self-referential imagery but that’s a core element here.

Specifically, UNDERCOVER is riffing on an old design coveted by its die-hard fans and collectors.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CJUfq06gMKd/

In its Fall/Winter 2015 collection, “Hurt,” UNDERCOVER channeled a little bit of David Bowie and a little bit of the Universal horror monsters with a series of claw-like hand graphics that wrapped around the panels of bomber jackets and coats.

The designs immediately inspired bootlegs — real versions of the UNDERCOVER bomber, in particular, can still fetch upwards of four figures on the secondhand market.

The statement imagery made these UNDERCOVER outerwear pieces instant grails

https://www.instagram.com/p/CnrGxYcNbVs/

For FW23, UNDERCOVER is bringing back the hands in a new form.

These claws are embroidered, rather than printed, and made three-dimensional with beaded applique. It’s a statement twist that should make some fans very happy.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CnrJGdfNl_f/

No new Nike sneakers for UNDERCOVER this go-round, it seems, but the heads ought to appreciate the graphic design, at least.

FW23 also includes new iterations of UNDERCOVER’s signature teddy bear print, for instance, stitched into a sweater for your flexing pleasure.